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This small chain has parlayed a simple and admirable formula -- interesting, seasonal, eclectic food, well-prepared and affordable -- into three busy, useful restaurants. Set in a villagey shopping mall, this Chow features a produce and meat market selling the same high-quality ingredients used in its cooking. Call it Suburban Chow.
The great American dessert has its definitive rendition at Chow, a place that takes the fine art of pie-making seriously. To wit: thick, yielding chunks of apple touched with just the right amount of cinnamon; a top and bottom crust of buttery pastry barely enclosing the cornucopia of luscious fruit; a healthy dollop of cool whipped cream with a drizzle of thick, warm, golden caramel for textural and gustatory contrast. In a word -- perfection. Chow, a friendly old-mahogany spot with a... More »
"I screwed myself," I thought, fondly, when I couldn't stop thinking about German food long after I'd written my column last week. I'd eaten so well at the four places I'd gone to (the smoked pork chop at Speisekammer! the German frankfurter at... More »
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