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Named after a rather depressing Bollywood movie starring ‘50s comedian Mehmood, Chote Nawab is one of the new restaurants remaking Curry Hill, vastly expanding its menu from the typical dosas and Mughal fare to include regional Indian food from all over. Sadly, the price level is also increasing. Jewel of Chote Nawab’s menu is tunde ka kabab, a tandoori-roasted tour-de-force of lamb ground and then pounded for maximum smoothness and softness, making it seem like a tartare. Hyderabadi cuisine is aptly represented by a series of superior biryanis, spicy and furnished with a pair of pour-over sauces. Another of our favorites was shrimp pappas – good-size crustaceans immersed in a coconut gravy thickened with a South Indian fruit called kokum. It’s no hokum!
Our own Tejal Rao visits former Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen's Lower East Side South Asian restaurant, Pig and Khao, and finds the outcome boisterous and inconsistent. While Cohen's ability to cook ... More »
The legendary tunde ke kebab as served at Chote Nawab -- it strives to be the most tender kebab on earth (green and red sauces in background). It sounds like a Twin Peaks episode: 100 years ago a on... More »
My friend Bobby is an Indian food expert. So when I dragged him to Chote Nawab for the first time, he ran his practiced eye over the menu till it stopped at tunde ke kebab ($9). "This dish from Lucknow, in northeast India, was invented long ago... More »
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