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While most East Village Japanese restaurants concentrate on either sushi or noodles, Chiyono presents home-style Japanese cooking, like your Nipponese mom would have made. That means a roster of croquettes, of which the best heaps potatoes on a pair of splayed fresh sardines, then deep-fries them. Other domestic delicacies include seafood-topped salads, thin-skinned pork and vegetarian gyozas, and the nearly unpronounceable pirikara-konnyaku;hunks of gray and nearly flavorless devil's tongue starch dressed with soy sauce, chile flakes, and shaved bonito. Seating is mainly family style at a large communal table, and a chalkboard menu details the many daily specials.
"This really isn't a sushi place," said Gretchen, somewhat balefully, as she ran her eye over the menu at Chiyono. We'd arrived at the narrow dining roomwhere most of the seating is at a canoe-shaped communal tableby running the gantlet of... More »
In Bertolucci's Last Tango in Paris, Brando tells Maria Schneider to "Go get the butter" as a prelude to anal sex. Prodding us to wonder: What does Brando deserve? How about a mouthful of raw squid at Chiyono, which tastes like--shamelessly quoting ourselves --"the gooey aftermath of a blowjob." This culinary inversion turns out to be particularly apropos since, as rumor has it, the Schneider character in the director's original script was intended to be a boy rather than a girl. More »
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