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Seattle sushi chefs tend to be brisk-more "Hai!" than "Hi, how are ya?" Chinoise owner Jae Ahrens has a top sushi chef's swift fingers and stern demand for the freshest fish, but he breaks from tradition in his barside manner-affable, chatty, more like a bartender than a lean, mean, fish-slicing machine. Sushi is the place's raison d'être; the rest of the Asian-fusion menu is less refined.
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