Description
A Peruvian restaurant is almost obligated to serve a version of pollo a la brasa, the garlicky, well-herbed grilled chicken that may be the most famous dish of the cuisine, but Mario Alberto Orellana's version is unusually crisp, served with a sauce of pureed black mint instead of the customarily fiery aji, and served with french fries and a little cup of the spiced cheese sauce usually reserved for papas a la huancaina. The aji de gallina, an ordinarily gloppy chicken stew, is a different creature here: bright yellow, shredded flesh cooked to a kind of chewy, highly flavored spiderweb hovering over the sauce. Fascinating.
