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From a series of stainless-steel vats in the center of the room, the counterman at Chili John's scoops out pinkish beans, mounding them high in a yellow plastic bowl, then he carefully spoons thick, brick-red chili over the beans until the bowl nearly brims over onto the counter. With a flourish, he tops off the chili with a splash of bean water. He cocks an eyebrow, which means: "Would you like an extra little drizzle of orange grease with that?" Of course you do. Chili.
In parts of Europe, as generations of travelers have learned, restaurants often close for several weeks in the summer, and while I would wish to deprive no hard-working line cook of her three weeks in a rental flat in Elba, chiuso, closed, may be... More »
Dear Mr. Gold:I’m originally from Cincinnati, where a bevy of chili parlors (Skyline, Gold Star, Camp Washington) serves chili with spaghetti (referred to as a 3-way). Of course, the coney (a hot dog with chili and cheese) is also a staple, and... More »
Carousel Restaurant. There are two Carousels, and the Glendale branch may well be the best, most interesting Lebanese-Armenian restaurant in Los Angeles. The big, brash room, bedecked with scimitars and other Middle Eastern antiques, accommodates... More »
Chili John's (chili) This is wonderful chili, dense and comforting, lean and hearty, with a cumin wallop and a subtle, smoky heat that creeps up on you like the first day of a Santa Ana wind, flavoring your breath for half a day even if you don't... More »
Apple Pan My family have been Apple Pan regulars at least since Lew Alcindor played freshman ball. The top and bottom buns of an Apple Pan burger are both crisped and slightly oily, crunchy at the edges, working toward a near-complete softness at... More »
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