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Smart street snacks-tacos, tortas, tamales-from Mexico City are made with organic masa, sustainable meats, and enough sophistication to justify a leisurely meal and a glass of (affordable) wine. Chef Roberto Aguiar Cruz' healthful pozole and sopa de tortilla are made with a rich stock that takes the chill off, while his mastery of fresh and dried chiles (ask for a side of "Roberto's Sauce") offer soulful satisfaction.
Almost every restaurant that makes it past its five-year anniversary has to reinvent itself, even if that just means replacing the tables and repainting the walls. However, very few restaurants survive a radical transformation -- which is what makes Azteca Taqueria's metamorphosis into Chilango both startling and welcome. Tapping into the zeitgeist, Victor Hugo Juarez took his lackluster 20-year-old taqueria, changed the color scheme from Santa Fe to earth tones, and reworked his menu... More »
The Californication of Mexican cuisine has been a mixed bag. In trading fat for flavor and authenticity for familiarity, gutsy food tends to lose its soul — and its soulful satisfaction — as it chugs upscale. Cashing in on designer margaritas and... More »
A weekly listing of new restaurants around town. To recommend a spot, e-mail fresheats. Acme Burgerhaus: 559 Divisadero (at Hayes), 346-3212. Western Addition. Burgers. Art/s: 2353 Lombard (at Scott), 931-7900. Marina. Small plates. Burger... More »
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