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This warm, lively Maple Leaf restaurant offers two menus: Chinese-American and traditional Taiwanese-Sichuan. From the latter, a light, flavorful jellyfish appetizer has a crunchy texture recalling Japanese seaweed salad. Chiang's also makes a splendid (and massive) seafood hot pot brimming with crab, mussels, whitefish, eel, button mushrooms, and Napa cabbage. One oddity to look out for: "tofu of strong odor," golden cubes of musky-smelling tofu served with a soy-garlic sauce that cuts the smell. The restaurant fills up at weekend brunch for Taiwanese dim sum (sweet soy milk, crullers wrapped in rice noodles, steamed humbow stuffed with greens).
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