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Chef Oge Dalken's dishes are like a riddle asked, then wittily answered. What, for instance, is a potato pear? Well, it's a Japanese corokke-like, breaded, mashed-potato ball that's stuffed with mushroom duxelle, molded into a pear's shape, and eaten with a wild-mushroom marsala cream sauce. And what is this dessert called "Milk & Cereal"? Why, it's a bowl of perfectly set panna cotta playing the role of milk and the crispy Greek pastry dough called kataifi doubling for shredded wheat. A scoop of Cinnamon Toast Crunch ice cream drives home the punch line like a rim shot.
What do you say to someone who tells you they only like vodka drinks, besides, "eeeeeeeegh!"? How do you rescue them from the precipice of artificially-flavored "martinis" and vodka-cranberry pretendi... More »
Ladies and germs: it's okay to eat at Chapter One: The Modern Local again. Us Forkers had an unofficial ban against the place because one of its former partners trashed Mexican SanTana during a city c... More »
We don't really talk about it much here on this infernal blog, but there's a huge debate raging in downtown SanTana about the continued gentrification of the area. I definitely have my issues with thi... More »
So proud is Chapter One: the modern local of its libations that it puts them on the same one-sheet menu with the rest of the food. In fact, they call them "Culinary Cocktails". And if you think t... More »
Dave, my chica and I were dining at Chapter One: the modern local in downtown Santa Ana when the helpful waitress said we were getting free shots. I was about to wave it off, figuring the owners knew ... More »
Former Haven Gastropub partner Jeff Hall throws down the gauntlet with Chapter One, a challenge to not only his former colleagues, but also his neighbors at Santa Ana's burgeoning restaurant scene. The bar pours old-man drinks with equal jiggers of expertise and knowledge of the mixological arts. It's also up-to-date on the local beers. Meanwhile, chef Oge Dalken, a culinary raconteur in a city full of them, brings humor and lightness to dishes that are as fun to eat as they are to order. A... More »
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