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Nowhere are the changes overtaking the Keys more evident than at this minuscule, finely appointed restaurant. For 20 years, the space was occupied by Manny & Isa's, known for its homey Cuban fare and key lime pie. Now the chef and proprietor is transplanted Nantucket restaurateur Jean-Charles Berruet, who left the frigid North and headed south to cook his classically oriented, slimmed-down French cuisine. Foie gras with dried fruit compote is appropriately rich and decadent, but coq au vin is light, its tender bird plucked from a pot at your table and served with mushrooms and bacon shards. There is even a selection of artisanal cheeses and delightfully airy soufflés, plus a wine list that's a trove of exciting French and Californian bottles.
Editor's note: Periodically we will publish capsule reviews like those below in addition to our weekly full reviews. This installment, dedicated to the Florida Keys, was written by Bill Citara. More than 530 capsule reviews of local restaurants... More »
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