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A restaurant of perplexing contrasts, Chantanee has Las Vegas-cum-Bellevue splendor and ultra-classic cocktails, with a voluminous menu and waiters training to make it up to the four-stars. The food, commanding top prices, varies from crappy American versions of Thai standards (tom kha gai filled with raw mushrooms, crispy calamari salad drowning in sugar syrup) to rare, exciting Thai dishes like miang kam, mixed crunchy things served with fresh betel leaves for wrapping, and phad chaa, or meat with chile paste, Thai basil, and clusters of fresh peppercorns. If you're willing to spend the dough, you may stumble on the dish you're after.
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