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Queens's German restaurants are on the verge of extinction, and this is one of the remaining examples. You can't go wrong with the Bavarian platter, consisting of a bratwurst and smoked and unsmoked pork loins coupled with the usual cabbage sides; but who can resist the schnitzels of beef or pork, with gravy or without? The real oddities, though, are easy to miss on the appetizer menu, which you could skip anyway because of the largeness of the entrées: suelze, a coarse head cheese that resembles meat Jell-O, or the special of rubbery, wine-braised eel.
Felicitously located smack dab in the middle of a Lutheran cemetery, 150-year-old Niederstein's recently shuffled off its mortal coil, soon to be replaced by an Arby's. You thought the dead had better taste? Earlier, 70-year-old Gebhardt's also... More »
Floating in a the middle of a cemetery, Niederstein's was our German flagship, encapsulating 150 years of German American history in a single restaurant. With its closure we must look further for Deutsche essen. At Chalet Alpina, the waitresses dress like vampires, but there's no denying the excellence of the wiener schnitzel, or its pork cousin, and there's nothing better than a plate of smoked bratwurst sided with sauerkraut and the free-form noodles called spaetzle, washed down with a... More »
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