Central 214

• Cuisine(s): New American
  Hours: Sun, Sat 8am-3pm, Sun-Wed 5pm-10pm, Mon-Fri 7am-10:30am, Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm, Thu-Sat 5pm-10:30pm
  Price: $$$$ $$$$
• Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards
  Features: Business Dining, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Private Party
  Serving: Breakfast, Brunch, Dinner, Lunch
• Alcohol: Full bar
  Reservations: Accepted, Recommended
  Parking: Lot Available, Valet

Description

For some time, Central 214 was led by Blythe Beck, but now Graham Dodds mans the pass, fresh from an award-winning stint at Bolsa in Oak Cliff. His bone-marrow butter steak is a stunner. Dodds procures beef naturally raised in Texas, sears it to order and slathers it end to end in a beautiful compound butter, tricked out with herbs, soft garlic and bone marrow. Sure, it's heavy. Consider it a special-occasion dish. A house-made blood sausage stuffed into ravioli, and a delicious Scotch egg are standouts too. There are lamb's breast and beef short ribs and thin crispy ribbons of pig ears. There's an oxtail ragout. Are you seeing a pattern here? Dodds doesn't shy away from animal protein, but there's a certain elegance to his cooking. Hosted in the Hotel Palomar's downstairs dining room, Dodds’ cooking makes for compelling eating. And his bar snacks are a worthy accompaniment to a long session at the bar.