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The Castle Café's been cooking since the 1890s. Under countless owners, this storefront eatery has been a gathering place for miners, ranchers, cowboys, drunks, locals, travelers and everyone in between. Today, it's also a destination for people who are addicted to authentic, Kansas City-style pan-fried chicken, which was introduced by the folks who bought the place in 1996. As you step through the door, the first thing you notice is the smell of chicken frying. The second, how comfortable and nicely worn everything is. The third, how quickly you can relax.
This is great chicken, slow-cooked chicken, tender and greasy chicken sheathed in a crisp armor of salt-and-peppered batter, a one-off of the incomparable Kansas City style practiced by places like Stroud's and a hundred and one less well-known fry joints and chicken shacks. It's also chicken that can take more than forty minutes to arrive, because every bird that's ordered at Castle Cafe is split in half, hand-floured and cooked to order in a shallow pan by a guy whose only job is to watch... More »
Real pan-fried chicken is a rarity. Making it is labor-intensive, time-consuming, messy and ties up a godawful amount of stove-top real estate in a busy galley. Good pan-fried chicken is even rarer, because there just isn't that much call for it in this part of the country -- and unless you were raised way down south or in Kansas City, you probably don't know good from bad from mediocre, anyway. But take our word for it: The pan-fried chicken served at Castle Cafe is a damn fine version of... More »
I love expensive cheeses. The good ones -- cave-aged, smeared in ash, riddled with veins of carefully tended mold, rubbed down by nuns and Italian virgins in towns whose names I can barely pronounce, made from the milk of animals whose teats I... More »
Take a dip: Every decade has its dip. Clam dip in the Fifties. Lipton Onion Soup dip in the Sixties. Yogurt in the swinging Seventies. Hummus in the international Eighties. And the Nineties? During the past decade, assorted artichoke... More »
Kansas City smells of barbecue, especially on road trips when cash is short and hunger's high, and the aroma just intensifies until there's nothing you can do but stop at a roadside stand and get a bag of bones that will last you through... More »
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