Description
Capital Restaurant, which many Chinatown insiders pick for homestyle Cantonese food, has been around long enough to look of a different time. Was it last redecorated in 1955? 1972? It's hard to tell. The scuffed linoleum is clean but the color of a sunburnt map, and the lunch counter at the front resembles the diners where you can order a slab of ham and a cuppa joe. Taped-up wall specials -- ignore the official menu in favor of these -- ring the entire room: hotpots of mixed seafood and molten eggplant; steamed tilapia smothered in ginger and scallions; crisp pea shoots stir-fried with garlic; and the umami bomb of a pork patty with salted fish. Oh, the salt-and-pepper wings? They're justly famous for the skin alone.
