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Joining Da Silvano and Bar Pitti on a tree-lined stretch of Sixth, Cantinetta aims to be the less-formal and lower-profile sibling, while still slinging food in the pared-down, fresh-ingredient style often associated with Tuscany. The prices aim to be less than Da Silvano, too, but don't particularly succeed. Despite shaky service, we loved the squid-ink taglierini, midnight ribbons in a discreet tomato sauce knuckled with bits of shrimp, and the Florentine tripe stew, so rich and powerful it was impossible to finish the bowl. The open storefront makes for breezy and relaxed summer dining.
I awakened from an afternoon doze to find Mario Batali doing a commercial for OTB. Jolly and florid of face, he slouched on a bar stool waving a slice of pizza and encouraging his admirers to come down to O'Neill's in Maspeth, Queens, where a... More »
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