Canteen

Dennis Leary now owns an empire (Sentinel, Golden West, House of Shields), but at his first restaurant every dish is still cooked in a tiny open galley kitchen. Once a diner, the restaurant features four booths and seven counter stools, and so dinner seatings fill up a week or two in advance. Canteen's seasonal menu, which changes at least weekly, is still just as delicious. Few dishes repeat, but we've enjoyed silky soups (such as white corn with bacon); a spicy-hot crab salad cooled by a ball of cucumber sorbet; plump roasted quail with sweetbreads and raisins; a "pot au feu" of veal filet, peppered beef brisket, and foie gras; and a much-loved vanilla soufflé.

• Cuisine(s): California, French

  Hours: Sat 8am-10pm, Tue-Thu 6pm-10pm, Sun 8am-2pm, Fri 11:30am-10pm

  Price: $$, $$$

  Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards

• Attire: casual

  Features: Private Party, Catering, Business Dining

  Serving: Brunch, Dinner, Lunch

  Alcohol: Full bar

• Reservations: Accepted

  Parking: Street