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The decor at this Greenpoint eatery seems to be modeled after a Midwestern hunting retreat: A forest-green sloped ceiling creates a cozy vibe, while wood paneling and brick walls lend rustic charm. It’s all the more surprising when you consider the food: highly inventive, artfully presented, Latin American small plates (at affordable prices). Begin with a palate-cleansing scallop ceviche coated in a sweet-potato puree. Then move on to pink slivers of shaved veal tongue with cool crema fresco, seared chicken livers and thighs in a decadent peppercorn-and-red-wine reduction, and chicharrĂ³nes piled in a bowl smeared with white-bean puree. Wash it all down with a pisco sour. No, make it two pisco sours.
The amuse was a thin strip of fried plantain flavored with red-pepper aioli (or more properly, perhaps, allioli) and decorated with clover. [See More Weekend Diaries: Rosemary's: A First Glimpse of t... More »
Many restaurants have splashy openings fueled by flittering publicists and camera-ready chefs. Not Calyer, the latest eatery from the team behind Anella, St. Vitus, and Jimmy's Diner. It debuted in Greenpoint at the end of the summer and has... More »
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