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From the regulars cozied up to the counter to the black-and-white checkered floor, Cafe Lago is like an Italian Cheers blended with Mayberry's barbershop. It's welcoming, unhurried, and neighborhoody, with the waitstaff dispensing good-natured barbs and advice as easily as Chianti and antipasti. The cooks make each and every noodle by hand: fresh fettuccine, tossed with sautéed pancetta and asparagus in a spicy tomato sauce; a delicate, creamy lasagna marred only by a standard red sauce; and tender potato gnocchi served in an electric-orange sauce of tomatoes, cream, and vodka. Other popular items include a Gorgonzola-topped New York steak and a handful of wood-fired pizza pies.
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