Description
The reason that this quirky little French restaurant still shows up in most-romantic-restaurant lists isn't the fact that Jacqueline Margulis makes each of the savory and sweet soufflés on her short menu for two people. It's that diners are there for the evening, spending a few hours splitting a bottle of wine and waiting for their soufflés to be made to order, the conversation becoming as intimate as their familiarity with the North Beach cafe's weathered wood floorboards and pale blue-green walls. Breach the golden dome of Margulis's airy savory soufflés - gruyere, mushroom, seafood - and they take an eon to collapse. (It takes several bites, in fact, to realize how rich they are.) And the lemon, chocolate, and Grand Marnier soufflés, even more ethereal, are the stuff to inspire envy in molecular gastronomists.
