Description
This echt Parisian cafe may be known more for its location -- on Belden Place, one of the best spots to spend a sunny-day lunch hour -- than its classic French fare. Nevertheless, the standards are all represented: celery root remoulade, frisée aux lardons, moules marinières. French and francophilic San Franciscans have long ID'd the cafe as a source for andouillette and boudin noir, the latter served with apples braised in red wine and mashed potatoes that must be at least 30 percent butter. Service can be a little slow, but it suits the mood.
