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This new noodle-and-dumpling spot doesn't dabble in Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, which comes as something of a relief. You can now get hand-pulled noodles anywhere in Chinatown, but where can you get wok ho fun? This incredibly cheap soup features irregular homemade rice noodles, scads of sliced mushrooms, chopped Chinese celery for pungency, and tiny, tiny shrimp, which send the flavor of the rich broth in an oceanic direction. Other noodle soups abound, some with funny names, such as "wild yellow noodle in soup," which turns out to be more boring than its name. Steamed buns and lots of homemade dumplings complete the menu, of which our favorite is "pork in sticky pork ball soup."
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