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Brushstroke, a noteworthy collaboration between David Bouley and the Tsuji Culinary Institute of Osaka, marks one of the few spots in New York where you can enjoy kaiseki-style dining. That is, a procession of seasonally inspired dishes aimed to capture all of Japan's geographic regions and tastes. The offerings change regularly, but expect to see visually striking dishes like mountain yam floating in a pristine tomato gelée, tuna sashimi, and pork cheeks stretching over a velvety green apple purée. An eight-course meal for one that costs at $85, and 10 courses are $135. But a bar alcove offering sushi and a handful of à la carte items from both menus presents a (slightly) more affordable option.
Robert Sietsema dives into the pan-Balkan cuisine at Balkanika, where 18 dips are neatly displayed in tubs. Located in Hell's Kitchen, Balkanika adds a passel of Balkan hot dishes served as main cours... More »
Think Alice Waters and Dan Barber were the original artists of the locavore movement? Try again. It arguably started centuries ago with the Japanese. With ornate ceramic tableware as canvases, their craft took shape in the kaiseki meal. This... More »
David Bouley's elegant Japanese restaurant, Brushstroke, serves one of the most mind-blowing scoops we've ever tasted--a soy-sauce ice cream that's as wonderful to eat as it is weird to imagine. In fact, though, it's not weird at all: The soy is syrupy and salty, lending the creamy scoop that familiar depth of salted caramel or peanut butter, but with much more complexity. 30 Hudson Street, 212-791-3771, davidbouley.com (10013) More »
Getting the full kaiseki experience at David Bouley's new Japanese restaurant, Brushstroke, will unquestionably put a dent in your wallet. (Set menus run $85 and $135.) But the bar room offers à la carte dining at a slightly more affordable price. One of the best options is the crab and truffle chawan-mushi. The steamed egg custard, flavored with soy sauce and mirin, comes in a vessel topped with a truffle-flecked dashi and studded with chunks of Dungeness crab. The silky smooth... More »
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