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Fremont—the Fremont worth saving—survives and prospers as long as Brad Inserra is behind the stove at the Swingside. Inserra loves sautés, braises, and fricassees, often robed in dense, spice-scented tomato sauces. He loves piling nuggets of fresh seafood atop swirls of pasta, secreting seasonal mushrooms and vegetables in one-dish meals, creating a kind of regional Calabrian gumbo from whatever's in good supply right now. And all this hearty cooking is served in nicely noisy intimacy in a cozy space that makes diners feel like friends of the family.
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