The Sri Lankan food at this luncheonette--featuring the brooding, spice-laced "black curries" (pick lamb); mellow, coconut-laced fish curries (pick kingfish); and breads like appams (weekends only) and outsize rotis--makes Ceylonese cooking delightfully unique. The dosai are particularly good, and, outflanking its Staten Island brethren, Bownies also serves additional vegetarian South Indian specialties like curd rice-a glorious tart sludge flavored with black mustard seed and curry leaf. Also don't miss puttu, a loaf of crumbled brown rice snowed with dried coconut.
It's no longer necessary to drag your ass to Staten Island to get great Sri Lankan food. Bownie Restaurant is the latest addition to 45th Avenue's fledgling restaurant row, which begins at the corner of Bowne Street and heads eastward. This... More »
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