Description
Daniel Boulud's sixth restaurant in NYC is the first to fully explore Mediterranean-rim cooking, which includes--first and foremost--a selection of Provencal standards, including such things as soupe de poisson, ratatouille served with a poached egg, and the chickpea French fries called panisse. Italy is heard from via a Sicilian sardine escabeche, sweet and sour at the same time, and, less successfully, in a cat-foody veal tonnato and a rabbit porchetta that turns out to be a pedestrian roulade. There are nods of the head to Morocco, Turkey, and Greece, too, but the most wonderful section on the menu may just be the desserts, which include a grapefruit stuffed with citrus ice and all sorts of other goodies, capped with caramel.
