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Book Bindery's nearly invisible location is attached to the Almquist Family Cellars in a boxy, office-park-looking building almost beneath the Fremont Bridge. Once you discover it, though, you'll find yourself at one of the best, most surprising restaurants in the city. The menu offers only 15 plates—a board that is both OCD tight and as restrictive as a fatwa: two salads, one soup, two fish, one pasta, one chicken, one pork—no room for repetition, no space for weakness. And chef Shaun McCrain's seven-Michelin-star resume—with stints at Les Élysées du Vernet in Paris, Michael Mina in San Francisco, and Thomas Keller's Per Se in New York, from which he obviously lifted more than one trick—is the kind of thing that makes other chefs want to kill him and dress in his skin just to see how it feels to be able to make something like the autumn apple salad with pork belly, or the simple, perfect bowl of clams and sausage--both dishes that will change the way you look at food forever.
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