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Jonathan Seitz, who co-founded the local Bandanas Bar-B-Q chain, has moved on — sort of. He and partner Chris Makos have transformed a former Wendy’s in Affton into a barbecue joint. The menu is what you’d expect: pulled pork, pork ribs, beef brisket, chicken and turkey, all smoked over hickory and pecan woods. The ribs are very good, in large part thanks to a nicely balanced dry rub that adds both spice and sweetness. The surprise is the turkey, incredibly tender and flavorful. The fried biscuits, which accompany every platter, have the potential to become an object of cult worship and a destination in themselves.
Down Gravois Road we go, over the trickle of the River Des Peres, from south city into south county, past the strip malls and the cemeteries (seriously, is Gravois zoned specifically for the dead?), until someone, sniffing, asks, "Is something... More »
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