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Bolla is chef David Bull's (late of the Driskill Hotel in Austin, Iron Chef gladiator, Mansion alum) interpretation of "modern" Italian. The cuisine is careful and exacting, though its strokes of originality sometimes come across more as mesmerizing charms than as means to flavorful ends. Risotto stumbles and pork diavolo confounds while duck leg confit ravioli, beef tartare and roasted beet salad revel in an off-kilter exquisiteness. Bull's culinary installations seem like demolitions administered by Rembrandt.
Bolla is Italian for bull. Bolla is headed by Bull—chef David Bull, fresh from the Driskill Hotel in Austin, youngest sous chef ever to whip and sauté at The Mansion, James Beard Award nominee, CIA grad, Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef (2003),... More »
Now, I haven't been to EVERY restaurant in Dallas, but I've been to the "good ones". I think Bolla is my favorite. I've had dinner and brunch there on several occasions and it is always perfect. I'll be back.
It's a dead ringer for a sculpture garden, this cluster of roasted gold and blackened blood-red beets, carved into silos and cubes and slithery rectangles, resting near dunes of sea salt. Bullet dabs of oil, suspending pulverized basil, chive, parsley and garlic hug the plate edges, while tufts of amaretto crème frâiche fill in spaces between the silos and delicate pelts of warm Camembert. These little points of intensity counterpoint and compete with the earthy beet--a... More »
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