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Downtown's BOKA is a restaurant so L.A. you can almost smell the smog, with chain-mail and cherry-wood surfaces, multicolored LCD panels, and a social swirl at the bar. The kitchen puts out playful, precious food to match, like Dungeness-crab cupcakes crowned in a pouf of crème fraîche icing. At times the food skews too sweet, and the service too tart, but it's certainly never dull, and diners with a tolerance for ambition will enjoy the razzle-dazzle.
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