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This third outpost of a mini-chain that includes Cacio e Pepe and Spiga sets its sights on "creative Roman cuisine," and largely fulfills its mission via a tasty salad of octopus, arugula, apples, and orange salmon roe; and a soupy spaghetti of guanciale and truffles;you won't be able to avoid dipping the bread in the copious remaining juices, and calling for more bread. In fact, pastas rather than the pricier second are the way to go for your main course, and the list includes many distinguished varieties, such as cacao e pepe (tonarelli twirled in a cheese rind) and fusilli gobbed with an agreeable arugula pesto.
As restaurateurs open successive places, they often get worse and worse. This worried me as I wandered westward along 19th Street for my first visit to Bocca: Would it be as good as its ancestors? Bocca's grandfather was Cacio e Pepe, an East... More »
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