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This place feels about as big as an acre, which is as cool as an oyster in January when there's a big crowd filling the space with congenial chatter. But when it's empty, it feels kind of forlorn. It really should be hopping all the time, too, because chef Kevin Davis -- the man who launched Steelhead Diner -- has got some major cooking chops. He's from New Orleans y'all. Get the salmon sandwich with fried dill pickles at lunch. When happy hour rolls around, let the shuckers pry open a few Virginicas for you. They're the best. Or those Kushis are a close second. The seafood-centric menu ranges all over the country, not just the Northwest, but the best thing on offer remains the Potatoes Minneapolis: a huge plate of shredded, fried potatoes and bacon.
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