This establishment is an eats beacon in a downtown Brownsville increasingly dominated by fast-food chains, and one of the rare local Jamaican places to produce jerk pork. The handsome nuggets are grilled over charcoal and doused with a distinctive homemade sauce. Though the regulars seem to prefer the oxtails, we scarfed an excellent goat curry, damper and hotter than most, served over rice and peas. Also admirable was the copious side of mac-and-cheese, with lots more cheese than you'd expect.
This is a trick category. Although pig preceded chicken in Jamaica itself, chicken has always ruled in Brooklyn. But Brownsville's BLUE MOUNTAIN does amazing jerk pork in its 60-gallon drum, meaty nuggets thickly coated with a fragrant allspice rub. The jerk sauce is not as hot as it might be--which should come as a relief to many. More »
Jamaican restaurants in Brooklyn are as numerous as goats on the Trelawny roads, but when Leadfoot Louie, my trusted guide to island cuisine, arrived late one morning because he'd been painting his brother's new restaurant, I paid attention.... More »
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