Description
Plenty of restaurants like to make the local, seasonal ingredients claim, but this is the place that really puts its menu where its mouth is. The offerings change nightly, and draw almost exclusively on meat and produce from the Hudson Valley, and from Chef Dan Barber's farm in the Berkshires. One night, a disk of chilled crabmeat came atop delicately shaved fennel, and sat in a vibrantly green, cold broth of apple juice, mustard seed and herbs. Creamy fennel soup echoed some of the same flavors, with a sprinkling of
crabmeat, candied lemon and tarragon. A lamb loin, cooked rare, was fine-grained and faintly gamey, and grilled hamachi with a raw interior was as good as the best sushi. These pedigreed ingredients don't come cheap, of course. This is a sugar-daddy (or mommy)
kind of place.
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