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Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner is on a roll. Right on the heels of the wildly inventive Thor, he debuted Blaue Gans ("Blue Goose"), with food considerably more normal--if you come from Austria, that is. Sure there's a Wiener schnitzel, but the pair of luscious cutlets come smothered in cream sauce sporting bacon and diced mushrooms, heaped with the softest spaetzle imaginable. Then there's a salad of rare, fat-rimmed duck with candied chestnuts; a nifty menu of sausages sided with cabbage products and freshly grated horseradish; and a dense boiled beef shoulder cut in thick slices.
Hot off his successes at Wallsé, Café Sabarsky, and Thor, chef Kurt Gutenbrunner (the original chef at Danube) turned to the more homely and commonplace--a neighborhood bistro such as you might find in Vienna, sans the creativity of Wallsé, and Sabarsky's towering pastries. Blaue Gans is little changed, roomwise, from when it was the hapless Le Zinc, but now the bill of fare encompasses kavalierspitz (boiled beef shoulder with horseradish), jäger schnitzel... More »
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