Description
Much goes outrageously overboard at chef Eric Park's Silver Lake restaurant, in a way that's almost fun and then not fun at all. The meat for a lamb burger is ground with butter, for a burger that literally gushes fat — not just the butter in the meat (why?) but blue cheese as well. It's a flavor bomb, for sure, but more than a little off-putting. The one vegetarian dish is a huge slice of brioche, soaked in brown butter with crimini, shimeji and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. It's too much. It might work as an hors d'oeuvre perhaps, but as an entire plate of food, it is pornographic. --Besha Rodell
