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Beijing Restaurant's second location serves much the same rustic, simply seasoned Northern Chinese food as its Excelsior parent: "warm pots" with fish or meat and pickled Napa cabbage, stir-fried potatoes, steamed meatballs, and multilayered "pies" (more like crepes) stuffed with ground meats and scallions. Beijing's twisty, irregular hand-pulled noodles have great presence, and the stir-fried "flour balls," the size of peas, have a delicately chewy texture somewhere between gnocchi and spaetzle. At the Sunset branch, the owners have imported an oven for preparing Peking duck, which they serve as a three-course meal. While the roast skin, served with crepes and scallions, is lovely, the remaining two courses, still need a lot of work.
Around the northern crown of the globe, there is a reassuring sameness to January food — the international solace of potatoes, the ubiquity of pickled cabbage. Dishes like choucroute, shchi, bigos, and kimchi jjigae still carry the echoes of a... More »
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