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The rich and powerful in the city of St. Louis mix with everyday folk for cafeteria lunch at this unadvertised, unsigned, unpriced and unlisted spot at the northern edge of the A.G. Edwards campus. "The barbecue today is pork," says the nice man who offers you the specials. "Would you like that with a side of the au gratin potatoes or the Brussels sprouts? Maybe a nice deviled egg?" This is straightforward, working-class food -- good roast beef, pork and ham, cold cuts sliced fresh to order, tapioca pudding. And a frequent side selection of Jerry Berger, an ex-senator, a high-ranking police officer or a titan of industry.
It's a regular tagline in the writings of Jerry Berger: "Overheard at Beffa's."Look in the phone book, though, and there's no Beffa's listed. Even if you're clever enough to divine that the place is located at 2700 Olive St., you won't see any signs from the street, unless you can read the faded lettering on the one facing Beaumont Avenue, behind the building, that indicates the free parking lot for Beffa Brothers. The only indications that the place is even a restaurant are the... More »
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