Barolo Grill

As Barolo Grill prepared to enter its third decade, owner Blair Taylor made some changes at his Piedmontese restaurant, a longtime monument to fine dining. When the staff took its annual trip to Italy in the summer of 2011, Taylor gave the interior an update, keeping the red-and-gold color scheme, the light linens and the softly glowing lights, but getting rid of the '90s-era wall hangings and artwork in favor of a cleaner, more classic feel. Under the direction of a new chef, the menu has been updated, too. Barolo still offers two ways to dine: a la carte or from a fixed price, five-course tasting menu. But the new offerings are more playful, with unexpected combinations -- such as risotto and escargot -- and unusual garnishes, including persimmon and pumpkin flakes. It also appears that more of a French influence has crept into the kitchen -- but when asked about that, the gracious, well-rehearsed servers don't miss a beat, simply pointing out the proximity of France to Piedmont. Taylor's work paid off: After two decades in business, Barolo has not only reaffirmed its relevance to the Denver dining scene, but is evolving into an even better restaurant.

• Cuisine(s): Italian

  Hours: Tue-Sat 5:30PM-10:30PM

  Price: $$, $$$

• Payment Types: All Major Credit Cards, Diners Club, cash

  Features: Fireplace, Patio/Sidewalk Dining, Private Party, Takeout, Wheelchair Accessible

  Serving: Dinner

• Alcohol: Full bar

  Reservations: Accepted, Highly Recommended

  Parking: Valet