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A cattle call to Bobby Flay fans, this hulking brasserie offers French cooking with American touches (clam chowder, pot pie, hot brown), and the stray squirt of chile oil recalls his origins at the East Village's Miracle Grill (now closed). But in trying to please everyone with its plateaus de mer and substantial steak list, the place overreaches. Best deal on the menu is a moules frites, a multitude of mussels submerged in a buttery, pea-green broth. The worst is a so-called artisanal ham tasting that strands tiny strips of only one Kentucky ham in three gloppy presentations.
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