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At this Gambian restaurant, a five-table diner connected to a quickie-mart, the short menu includes kabobs (all the meat is halal, by the way), egg rolls, and okra braised with salted fish and gristly lamb that may not appeal to outsiders. But Bantaba's chicken yassa, it's something. The cooks caramelize onions-masses and masses of them-and then add mustard and chicken legs, simmering the stew together until the mustard's pungency fuses to the silky, sweet onions and the meat deepens their flavor as it grows tender.
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