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Looking as if suburbia had finally colonized the bamboo-forested rebel camp in House of Flying Daggers, Bamboo Garden does Szechuan food the right way, bringing out its intricate spiciness. Chengdu hand-shaved noodles float in a tingly sesame-paste-thickened broth redolent of Szechuan peppercorns. Ma po tofu hits the tongue with a bum's rush of fermented black beans, roasted chiles, and garlic. You can shy away from the heat with succulent camphor-smoked duck or the Muslim-influenced lamb with cumin, but why travel to Rome only to refuse pasta? The Chengdu-born chefs do tone down the heat for Seattleites, enough that you'll be able to dip into the "sliced fish in hot and spicy gravy" (famous in China for its heat) without crying. Well, without sobbing. It's up to you to decide whether that's a good thing or not.
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