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Billed as a proscuitteria, Ballaro specializes in the glories of pig legs. Two classic Italian prosciuttos on the menu, and it's fun to taste them side by side--those pink slices ribboned with silken fat have layers of flavor that seem to go on for miles, unfolding one after the other. Pig legs also show up in other incarnations, such as parmacotto, an Italian baked ham, and speck, a German smoke-cured ham. Besides its meat and cheese platters, Ballaro offers excellent Lavazza coffee, sandwiches on foccacia or semolina bread, and a selection of antipasti and crostini. Don't miss the frisella crostini--a crusty round of bread softened with a sprinkle of cold water and olive oil--topped with a garlicky mass of tomato and basil. The sandwiches are uniformly good.
One of the best moments of my food-life happened in the basement of Salumeria Biellese, in Chelsea, when owner Marc Buzzio yanked open the door to his closet-like drying room and revealed a dense forest of hanging salamis, fat soprassata, whole... More »
We've come to think of panini as toasted, pressed deli sandwiches, like those you can get at Pax, the scourge of the earth. But "panini" just means "bread" or "rolls"--simply, it's a sandwich of any sort. At Ballaró, temple to the cured pig leg and all the wonderful things that issue from it, find marvelous cold-cut-stuffed paninis on focaccia or semolina bread. Best of all these sandwiches is the one that combines mortadella, primosale (a young, Sicilian sheeps'-milk cheese),... More »
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