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Our fair city has a dearth of Afghani restaurants compared to, say, Indian and Pakistani. Balkh Shish Kabab House excels at grilled meats, cooked right in the gas-fired hearth by the front door, of which the ground-meat keema is the best at soaking up the smoke. But Balkh's hidden agenda lies in braised meats, such as the glorious and hefty lamb shank, mantled with shredded carrots and raisins, and sided with jus-soaked rice and a salad best squirted with the accompanying herbed yogurt. The appetizers are fab, and swerve in vegetarian directions. Check out aushack, scallion-stuffed pouches flooded with tomato sauce and yogurt. The L-shaped dining room is agreeable, but don't even think about asking for alcohol, or carrying it in, either.
While most Afghan restaurants specialize in kebabs, pilafs, and fried things, Balkh Shish Kabab House, under the N tracks in Astoria, exhibits a penchant for boiling and braising. Most unique is a braised jerky called laundy, but you can also get a pair of shing: magnificent boiled lamb shanks oozing marrow. Other don't-miss dishes include fist-sized aushack dumplings stuffed with meat and pumpkin-filled turnovers known as bolanee kadu--demonstrating a surprising vegetarian bent to the... More »
Watching an eyeless drone fly over the rocky highlands of Afghanistan on CNN made me wonder what it might be spotting down there, food-wise. So I rounded up some friends and headed off to Balkh Shish Kabab House, one of the city's top Afghani... More »
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