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Just how many branches of a restaurant does it take before the place becomes impersonal? Hard to say, but Balans has passed it. Which isn't to say the establishment doesn't have its appeal: a relaxed ambiance, accessible food (including a very agreeable brunch), hip cocktails, and a final bill that won't break the bank. That last point is particularly pertinent, with most plates under $20. Starters include fried calamari, pot stickers, and popcorn shrimp. It isn't so much the formulaic nature of the selections that leaves us cold, but rather how 1990s they are (one of only two seafood entrées is Chilean sea bass, which is not only a dated notion, but also an ecologically insensitive one). Still, you can get a solid burger with tasty char-grilled flavor on a toasted bun; steaks assertively flamed and appropriately juicy; and properly cooked spaghetti laced with moist morsels of lobster meat in a mellow lobster-cream sauce.
The second annual Taste of Brickell festival is this weekend. The event -- which takes place this Saturday and Sunday, March 24 and 25, from noon to 10 p.m. -- turns 1201 Brickell Bay Dr. into a large... More »
Support Public Radio! We were filming live at 91.3FM for Ed Bell's show, and caught a great musician.Sarah Packiam is a singer songwriter who grew up touring bars and clubs around the world.Her mom is... More »
Eating at Balans is like buying clothes at the Gap. It's like reading a novel by John Grisham. It's like being a Blue Dog Democrat. In a word: meh. This occurs to me while using a fork to move about a bland nugget of chicken breast, pushing it... More »
Prudes freak when they see the glass-door bathrooms at Balans in Brickell. That is, until they flip the lock to the left and realize the door magically fogs up to provide discretion. Totally private stalls? Priceless! Not having to hear your neighbor deal with his or her gas or nausea? Refreshing. Knowing no one is looking under the partition at your chipped toenails or underpolished shoes? Much appreciated. Plus a sensual sink delivers water in fountain-like fashion, and guests have their... More »
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