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The goal of Avra seems to be to transport the diner straight to Greece. The space looks nothing like Midtown or even New York, and has wall-to-wall wood flooring, reclaimed wood tables, and seating that is more like what you’d find in a ritzy Greek apartment than an upscale restaurant. Avra has some good, homemade classics, and lots of feta cheese and Kalamata olives, but the focus is on an extensive menu of fresh seafood that ranges from octopus to jumbo shrimp to swordfish and the unusual grilled sardines. You’ve got all your mammals, too, and the roasted half chicken, served with oregano fries, is particularly nice, if not so Greek. And, while the decor is solidly upscale, the service is definitely casual, which may be a turn off to some and a welcome sight to others. At any rate, Avra is not intimidating. --Shane Barnes
Ever since the Mediterranean Diet blew Greek cuisine across the bridge from Astoria, midtown tavernas and estiatoria have been popping up like heads on a hydra, or do I mean warriors springing from a dragon's teeth? Like many, I am captivated by... More »
All too recently, the only sardines you could get in a Manhattan eatery were the ones that came in cans; suddenly, they're all over the place--skin flaky with char on the outside and sweetly tasting of the ocean within. Some of the best of the bunch are available at AVRA, a fledgling estiatoria that offers flopping fresh denizens of the deep to those who don't want to hustle to Astoria. It ain't cheap, but if you factor in the cost of a cab, you're about even. More »
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