Description
Matthew Lightner is the chef at this exquisite Tribeca restaurant, but diners may wonder if he's also a crafty park ranger or a whimsical magician. Behold the airy white macaron filled with black, shining sturgeon caviar or the deeply flavored raw-milk ice cream that melts into a gorgeous lump of candied tomato. Is that a burnished mound of coal on your plate? A cut through the blob's gritty shell will reveal that the burnished exterior is merely a foil surrounding a brilliant red core (the dish is a slow-roasted beet that's dried over charcoal and served with trout roe). Your meal -- 25 or so courses that will set you back $150 before alcohol -- is a three-hour exercise in studied elegance, an experience that can feel exciting and slightly exhausting. Lightner is at the cutting-edge of New York's fine dining, and his food shows us how cooking can be nature plus science, rather than a war between the two. Embark on the dining adventure with an open mind and an empty stomach. --Tejal Rao
