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Not every dish at chef Joe Isidori's Italian spot in Carroll Gardens is a hit, but when it's good, it's good. Like when Isidori pairs the smooth, dance-floor funk of tonnato--that tangy, tuna-rich mayo that traditionally accompanies slices of poached veal--with whole battered-and-fried sardines instead, then adds an ever-so-gentle spank of salsa verde. A dessert of butterscotch budino, topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a handful of salty duck-fat popcorn, is also a winner.
A few weeks ago, stories about a study published in Nature Medicine upset meat lovers. The study had connected the presence of TMAO -- sounds like internet slang, but it's a chemical produced by bac... More »
Robert Sietsema heads out to the Outer Borough and weighs in on El Mio Cid, a Spanish tapas bar with portions that are way larger than fashionable: "Three to an order, the sardines ($7.50) are some of... More »
The neighborhood might be more new Manhattan than old Italian these days, but if you're looking for a chocolate pudding that has been flustered by pig's blood, airy sandwiches of fried panelle with ricotta, or hot loaves of pork-studded lard... More »
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