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The menu is like any other old-time burger stand, featuring the ancient (steak sandwiches, gyros), the modern (tacos, burritos) and the eternal (Orange Bang! on tap, French fries as thick as an index finger and more golden than a Twinkie). Everyone orders hamburgers, usually the double cheeseburger: sesame bun crispy on the inside, soft on the outside, a condition made possible by keeping the buns on the edges of the griddle until someone orders. And the patty-charbroiled, juicy, acceptor of more smoke than a brush fire, always hanging about half-an-inch off the bread-is the type of patty upon which previous generation of burger barons created empires.
The big culinary story in Orange County the past couple of weeks has been the debut of Five Guys Burgers and Fries, an East Coast favorite frequently compared to In-N-Out. But it’s not even close: While the chain makes a good burger, it’s not a... More »