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Where my favorite osterie in Italy find purpose in the repetition of classic dishes, in menus that may not change for decades, Gino Angelini is by nature a creative chef who likes to mark dishes as his own. A regular at his restaurants could tell the difference between Angelini's saltimbocca and a traditional saltimbocca blindfolded. But as his nearby La Terza came into its own, the simpler Osteria seems to have become fun for the chef, a place where he can serve less elaborately garnished versions of his dishes to people who love them, fuel a happy lunch crowd with pasta al limone and a plate of tripe, serve oxtails on Thursday nights, dish out respectable versions of Roman trattoria classics like spaghetti carbonara and pollo alla diavola. Angelini Osteria may not be a serious restaurant, but sometimes you are in the mood for artistry, and sometimes you just want to have supper.
For the last dozen years, West Hollywood's Angelini Osteria has been perhaps the moral center of Italian food in Los Angeles. A procession of many of the town's best practitioners of the cuisine has trained in chef Gino Angelini's small kitchen,... More »
A proper Fourth of July feast probably begins at the grill. And in contemporary Los Angeles, this all-American meal is as likely to be composed of yakitori and carne asada as hot dogs and hamburgers: ... More »
It's time, I think, to stop trying to explain my indifference to Angelini Osteria in the first years of its existence, which may have lain more in my reverence for Gino Angelini's skills with alta cucina, which this is not, than with any inherent... More »
Walk through the doors of Angelini Osteria on Beverly Boulevard and you'll feel transported. We mean that literally, rather than as some stupid Travel + Leisure cliché. Because there is a real person sitting just inside the door, with a real reservations book. Because there are tables filled not with young women blogging their lunch instead of eating it but with men of a certain age drinking wine by the bottle -- tables full of them, discussing politics over whole branzino.... More »
This is classy Italian in a bustling but comfortable environment. The space is small, so be sure to make a reservation. This is kind of place where you want to take advantage of the specials, but regular menu items that I love are the Amatriciana and Limone pastas (I don't care if you are on a diet - you have to have some pasta even if you just share it with the table), the whole Branzino (which they filet at the table) and the sole, and their heavenly oxtail.
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