Description
Where my favorite osterie in Italy find purpose in the repetition of classic dishes, in menus that may not change for decades, Gino Angelini is by nature a creative chef who likes to mark dishes as his own. A regular at his restaurants could tell the difference between Angelini's saltimbocca and a traditional saltimbocca blindfolded. But as his nearby La Terza came into its own, the simpler Osteria seems to have become fun for the chef, a place where he can serve less elaborately garnished versions of his dishes to people who love them, fuel a happy lunch crowd with pasta al limone and a plate of tripe, serve oxtails on Thursday nights, dish out respectable versions of Roman trattoria classics like spaghetti carbonara and pollo alla diavola. Angelini Osteria may not be a serious restaurant, but sometimes you are in the mood for artistry, and sometimes you just want to have supper.
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